The bishop of Chartres refused them permission
to use the Cathedral, seeing in their pilgrimage an implicit criticism of the
Western hierarchies. This year 20,000 pilgrims marched, coming from every
province of the western Church. Two bishops, the bishop of Chartres and the
bishop of St Étienne, turned out to welcome them and Chartres cathedral was
thrown open. The Holy Father granted a plenary indulgence to the pilgrims,
subject to the usual conditions of confession and communion.
As the result of a strange twist of fate with
which I will not bore you, I found myself among one hundred British pilgrims
on the march. We marched behind banners in chapters of approximately thirty
people. The chapters walked twenty meters or so apart with a priest walking
between the chapters to hear confessions. To say that the British marched is a
little misleading: most hobbled, limped, crawled and dragged themselves the
seventy miles. By the time we had finished even our blisters had blisters and
some people had so much strapping and plasters on their legs and feet they
looked like they had escaped from a mummifying factory. It was a little
humiliating watching French pilgrims arriving at the overnight stops, singing
and dancing - when many of us were barely able to stand!
That said, a nine year old boy completed the
march with the British contingent and a priest in his eighties completed much
of it with us. The elderly priest had a smile that came straight from heaven.
One only had to look at him for one's spirits to be lifted. Young people
constantly flocked round him, clearly finding the goodness, faith and joy that
welled up from within this elderly man an irresistible magnet.
Indeed, it was the young people who time and
again left the deepest and most lasting impression upon me. Eighty percent of
the pilgrims where between the ages of fifteen and twenty five, and I have
never witnessed such manifest faith and devotion. This is even more amazing
when one reflects that the Masses were celebrated in Latin, which would have
been something out of the norm for most youngsters. They just filled me with
hope and joy for the Church of tomorrow. I have memories of a Mass in a wood
where the crowd was so large that I could not see the altar, and stretching
away as far as I could see to the left and right were young people kneeling on
the hard wet ground silently waiting for a priest to bring Our Lord to them -
and with what manifest and profound reverence was the Lord of Time received! I
was moved close to tears just watching. I formed the strong impression that if
one had suggested to anyone of these youngsters that they should receive the
King of Kings, standing in a queue, à la McDonnell fast-food checkout, they
would have been absolutely horrified.
Again, on the Sunday night, after benediction,
thousands of young people took part in an all night vigil before the Blessed
Sacrament. These youngsters had walked twenty six miles that day and had a
further fourteen miles to complete the following day before reaching Chartres.
Did I take part in the all night vigil? No - I was tucked up in my sleeping
bag sound asleep, thanks to a different sort of spiritual comfort, a very
welcome wee toddy courtesy of a group of Scottish pilgrims marching in full
Highland dress.
There were moments of humour, as when a German
pilgrim anxious to practise his English earnestly asked one of the Scottish
pilgrims, if there were any Protestants in Scotland. Another time I, unable to
maintain the pace, had fallen back and found myself walking with a group of
French youngsters. Anxious to practise his English, one lad solemnly informed
me that he was walking with his husband! Then there was the French atheist who
approached Fr Christopher Basden and asked him to prove the existence of God!
Father responded, "C'est un peu trop difficile pour moi en Française."
Then turning to me asked, tongue in cheek, if I would like to have a crack at
the arguments of St Thomas Aquinas in French. I replied that I was fairly sure
that I wouldn't like to have a crack at them in English.
The next time a bishop or priest tells you that
we have a vocation crisis, don't believe a word of it. I marched with hundreds
of young priests, seminarians, tonsured monks, young nuns and brothers,
clearly all deliriously happy and head over heels in love with the Church.
As
old orders loose their way and implode, new vibrant orders are springing up to
accommodate vocations. One of the traditionalist seminaries in the states had
to turn away fifty candidates last year because they are bursting at the
seams! A traditionalist priest had six vocations in his parish! I walked with
numerous seminarians who had become exiles to train for the priesthood. Two
had tried their vocation in English seminaries and left in despair. A young
cardiologist, who had given up medicine to train for the priesthood, summed it
up in these words, "I gave up care for bodies to care for souls - I
needed formation in holiness and spirituality to prepare me for the
priesthood, not lectures on leadership and management!"
Those orders of nuns who purchase their habits
from Marks and Sparks, preach feminism and who have helped destroy Catholic
secondary education in this country may be disappearing faster than one can
say the Hail Mary - but the vocation crises is a myth spread by those who need
to conceal the sterile fruits of their own faithless ineptitude.
I was filled with admiration for the French
scout movement who were responsible for caring for the pilgrims on route - I
think they could teach NATO a thing or two about caring for large groups of
people on the move. Just imagine the organization that must go into erecting,
over night, tents, sanitation, washing facilities, soup kitchens, reception,
medical facilities, lighting and public address systems for such a vast horde!
I entertained dark thoughts of sabotaging the public address system at one
time when I discovered that it principle purpose was to facilitate some
sadistic French insomniac awaken everybody at 5.30am by bellowing "Reveillez,
reveillez, reveillez, reveillez, reveillez, reveillez...." across the
camp site!
I have so many beautiful and lasting memories:
the Catholics of Chartres turning out en mass to greet us, a great crowd
waving flags, cheering, singing, clapping and handing out gifts. One lady
handed me a milk pudding which after a seventy mile march slid down like a
torch light procession. The pews had been removed from Chartres cathedral to
make room for us all and we were packed in like sardines. I have delightful
memories of being dragged to my feet by eager young people who had observed
that because of my age, fatigue and the crush I was having difficulty moving
between sitting and standing. My most lasting memory was of three young girls,
no older than fifteen, one of whom was so lame that for the last six miles she
was all but dragged along by her two companions - her smile when she entered
the cathedral illuminated the narthex sans electricity.
For three days I was surrounded by Catholics
who genuinely and joyously embraced the faith of the Church. - including the
teachings of Vatican II. The genuine Vatican II that is - not that diabolical
chimera of western liberal dissent, the Spirit of Vatican II. Given such
ardent love of Our Lord in the Eucharist, such filial and tender devotion to
the Mother of God and such real devotion to the Holy Father, God will raise up
sons of Abraham from the very stones!
I have witnessed the Spirit moving through the
Church like a fire storm - Lord, now this old sinner can depart in peace!
I
left France more exhausted and elated than I can ever remember, with the
chorus of a hymn to Our Lady sung so frequently and joyously by the pilgrims
ringing in my ears:
Chez nous, soyez Reine,
Nous sommes à vous;
Régnez en souveraine
Chez nous, chez nous.
Soyez la Madone
Qu'on prie à genoux,
Qui sourit et pardonne
Chez nous, chez nous.
Don McGovern (27/07/99)
May 2000 Update
The big news this year is five bishops were
involved in the pilgrimage. One recently ordained Lithuanian bishop
walked the entire 70 miles with the pilgrims. An Argentinean bishop was
the celebrant for the Pontifical High Mass in Chartres cathedral. The bishop
of Chartres, plus a Senegalese and a Tunisian bishop where also on the altar
for the Mass. Just reflect that eighteen years previous the bishop of
Chartres had refused permission for the pilgrims to even celebrate Mass in the
cathedral. Cardinal Lustiger also gave his permission, howbeit
"through clenched teeth", for the Traditional Mass to be celebrated
in Notre Dame de Paris. The bastions are falling one after the other.
What a joy it is to be associated with something in the Church that is so full
of life and growth.
My wife and I walked this year for the return
to the faith of a member of our family who had strayed far from God.
Within ten days of our return, the person came to me to tell me that they had
returned to the practise of the faith. Blessed be God and his Holy
Mother!
If
you are interested in taking part in this beautiful experience, contact::
Francis Carey,
Chartres 2001,
14 Beryl Road,
London,
W6 8JT
Tel: 020 8741 1316, Fax: 020 8868 7158.
Email: latinmassuk@yahoo.co.uk
Pilgrims from the USA or Canada should contact: Fr John Mole: 175 Main
Street, Ottawa, Ontario, K13 1C3, Canada
The pilgrimage also has its own website (but you need to be able to read French).
Click here.